Saturday, August 23, 2014

Chandrala Parameshwari temple, Sannati

November 28, 2013
Sannati is a village on the left bank of river Bhima in Chittapur taluq, Gulbarga district. At Sannati is Chandrala Parameshwari temple, an important pilgrim place for Dasistha Brahmins. A fort also existed at Sannati.

Following information is sourced from Wikipedia. The story behind this temple goes like this- Goddess Chandrala Parmeshwari is an incarnation of goddess Lakshmi. Chandrala Parmeshwari's Paduka (feet) was brought from Hongunti Hingulambika temple (near present day Shahbad town) to Sannati to free her devotee Chandravadani who was held captive by an evil king named Setu Raya. From the goddesses' Paduka emerged five bumble bees which drowned the evil king in river Bhima ending his life there i.e. at Sannati.

With this tale its clear that Chandrala Parmeshwari temple has a long history. However the temple we see today could be 600 to 1200 years old. The temple has a tall Gopura similar to the temples of Hampi. Besides being a pilgrim center Chandrala Parmeshwari temple is the place where an inscription of emperor Ashoka was found. The discovery is recent and accidental. In 1986 the roof of the Kali temple in Chandralamba temple complex collapsed destroying the idol under it. The disturbance revealed slabs with inscription in Brahmi script and Prakrit language. One of the slabs was used as a pedestal for the deity's idol. The inscription was classified as a major rock edict of emperor Ashoka . Sannati inscription is the only major rock edict discovered in Karnataka. The slab with inscription was shifted to nearby Kanaganahalli excavation site.

slab with Brahmi inscription used as deity's pedestal at excavation site
With Archaeological Survey of India stepping in several artefacts such as tablets, sculptures, and terracotta items were discovered. During excavations a very important discovery took place; few kilometers away from the temple, near Kaganahalli numerous Buddhist sculptures in limestone were found. These sculptures lead to the discovery of ruins of two Buddhist Stupas, one large and one small. The larger stupa is said to be ruins of a 'Maha Stupa' or Adholoka Maha Chaitya ~ the Great Stupa of the Netherworld).

Once through the gateway under the Gopura, this aisle  leads to the shrine inside. Columns are ancient but the flooring is quite new.

That's the main temple, inside is the shrine of Chandrala Parameshwari.

To the left- a courtyard.

Pair of ancient pillars.

Egg-shaped Shivalingas on pedestals.

a painting of the deity
temple and reservoir as seen from Sannati barrage
I had heard about presence of an ancient university near Sannati which was on the scale of Nalanda university. While researching I stumbled on a informative article titled Buddhist System of Education on Kamat Research Database. Do read the aritcle to know how areas of today's Karnataka was connected with the Mauryan empire, to be precise the connection with emperor Ashoka. Also the article clears the present day identity of the ancity place Suvarnagiri. Quoting that sentence: "Sannati," according to some scholars, is the modern name of Suvarnagiri, which is mentioned in Ashokan inscriptions. So Kanakagiri near Koppal is not Suvarnagiri but its Sannati.

Kanaganahalli Buddhist center as seen from Sannati barrage
Bhima river flowing towards river Krishna

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Kankumbi, birthplace of Malaprabha

journey of a river - Malaprabha was kind of incomplete, because Malaprabha's birthplace Kanakumbi was never visited. I had passed through Kankumbi several times while traveling between Belgaum and Goa, I did not get an opportunity to stop there. Well, river Malaprabha has called me there..

Feb 28, 2014
After a tiring ride from Nandgadh to Anandgadh and back, my hosts Kemani Patil, Tukaram and Sidddu invited me to attend a function, it was a pooja at a small temple in the midst of paddy fields, followed by a prasad. The pooja was over by the time we reached and bhajan had started. The bhajan would go on until all people of the town had gathered and then lunch would be served. The sweet melodies of bhajan distracted me from my hungry tummy. Finally it was time, rows of hay was  spread on the ground, we sat on the hay and leaf plates were distributed. Lunch was anna, sambar, palya... spicy but very tasty, I relished the meal. I thanked my hosts and left Nandgadh.

To reach Kankumbi, we had two routes. Nandgadh-Khanapur-Jamboti-Kankumbi was a short route but road wasn't in good condition. Nandgadh-Khanapur-Belgaum-Jamboti-Kankumbi was longer but good roads. We chose to take the good road. We reached Kankumbi by 4-30 pm.

Malaprabha's birthplace is about 2 kms from Kankumbi village. The road was narrow hilly road passing through a jungle. A kilometer after the village the scene changed drastically, I felt we had entered a mine. The massive open pit we were looking at was Kalasa Banduri project. The place looks terrible, very sad to seen the place dug up. Anyway, we reached Mauli temple believed to be the starting point of Malaprabha. The temple is typical Konkan style.

Most Konkan temples have a shelter like this one. Next to the shelter in the foreground is a stepped well.

This well water is said to be the starting point of Malaprabha.

The place is dusty, thanks to the ongoing work in the neighborhood.

That's the Kalasa Banduri trench - a project that is supposed to join Mahadeyi and Malaprabha.

A short video of Mauli temple-

Since there was not one board stating this as birth place of Malaprabha I inquired with one of the temple staff. The elderly person said the correct Ugamasthala is Sri Rameshwar temple about half kilometer away.. he pointed at the temple and asked me to check out the well there. Water from the well at flows down to Mauli temple, collects in the well here and flows again.

This is Ramlingeshwar temple.. looks like a church :)

Check out the pillar, its made of laterite blocks.

Besides the temple is another temple and a well. Inside the small temple is silver hand (see inset).

This well is supposed to be the correct Malaprabha Ugamasthala. From here water flows down to Sri Mauli temple, collects in the well there and then flows down into the valley..

Video of Rameshwar temple-

The 400+ kilometer journey of Malaprabha from Belgaum district ends by merging into river Krishna at Kudala Sangama in Bagalkot district.