Saturday, May 18, 2013

Fort Vanadurga

December 24, 2012

The road from Gogi to Vanadurga village was almost a dirt track, progress was slow under the blazing sun. At the village a middle age man gave us directions to the fort; its about half kilometer away. Then we asked the man if he can accompany us and show the fort. Without hesitation the answer was yes. Our new friend's name is Madevappa Kasarajjar.

Vanadurga = Vana + Durga ~ forest + fort. It is said that this fort was surrounded by thick forest long time back. Hence the name Vanadurga. However, today there's no forest around the fort, instead it is surrounded by agricultural fields.

This is the fort's entrance. On either sides of entrance gate are Sanskrit inscriptions inscriptions of five lines in Devanagari script (see inset). According to an online source Vanadurga was a tribute by king of Surpur, Piddanayaka to his queen Venkammamba. The entrance is protected by a security complex with a curved path created by crescent shaped walls.

This diagram is the plan of Vanadurga fort. Notice the two complex gateways, its certainly designed to confuse enemy soldiers entering the fort. The outer security complex is a trap.

Enemy forces trying to enter this fort will be subject to surprise attacks, virtually impossible to enter without inside help.

Gateway in the outer wall
This is the space between the two gateways. We are inside the fort yet we are still outside. Enemy soldiers who make it till here are trapped between the gateways.
Inner side of the outer security complex.
Curved entrance of the inner gateway.
Outer side of the inner gateway
The inner gateway is flanked by platforms 5' off the ground. The platforms might have been the used as security offices. A pair of wooden doors remain fixed here. Iron studs and washers reinforced the wooden doors (see inset).

Raised platform flanking the inner gateway
Now we are inside the fort. On our left is Hanuman temple. Notice the slab with inscription on left side of the door. The inscription was unusual; it was a table made of 8 rows and 5 columns with letters in each of the cells.
Inner side of the inner gateway
Madevappa suggests we go around the fort. So we come out of the inner gateway to the space between the outer and inner walls. Madevappa shows us two half buried stones with rectangular holes in them; he believes those stones were made to tether elephants. We'll be going around the fort counter clockwise direction. Close to the north-east corner bastion, is a Hanuman sculpture embedded into the fort wall (see inset).

As we turn around the north-east corner the moat comes into view. This path goes right around the fort.

The moat is approximately 30' wide and 12' deep, covers 3 sides of the fort.

The fort is well preserved except for some collapsed walls. However this wonderful monuments needs care and attention from natural forces.

Collapsed part of the northern wall. We were told that on the other side of the wall is a military barrack.

A crack runs deep in one of the western bastions.

Notice the superior construction work- smooth finish walls.

Madevappa told us the moat is always full, even in worst of summers. It's a source of water for the folks living here. Oh, I forgot to mention; within the fort are 5 or 6 homes.

A secret passage in the southern wall. Notice the stone sizes in the wall- smaller blocks are used at the upper portion while the lower portion is made of larger blocks.

Inside of the secret passage. This might be the weakest point of the fort because the wall thickness is not much.

These ancient structures are believed to be military officers' quarters.

As we were walking by the homes I got a shock- a pink pony! Madevappa said that the pony has been colored during one of the rituals.. probably during Dasara or Deepawali.

Just outside the fort is this temple dedicated to Laxmi. The temple is in ruins, though rituals are performed people hardly visit the temple. It is used more as a gambling den.

We head back to the village and find a tea shop. We note Mahadevappa's address and promise to send his photos.

Vanadurga Coordinates: 16°37'54"N   76°41'35"E
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Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Adil Shahi tombs at Gogi

December 24, 2012

It was about 1-30 PM when we arrived at Shahpur, the second largest town of Yadgiri district. Shahpur hill is much larger than the town itself. Our plan was to visit the fort but the timing was not right. We decided to skip it and plan another visit. We found a Lingayath Khanawali, had a hearty meal and made inquiries about Vanadurga. Our destination was 25 kms away and we had to go via Gogi village which is about 12 kms from Shahpur. Gogi is known for two things- Adil Shahi tombs and Uranium. We decided to stop at Gogi and visit the Shahi tombs.

According to reliable sources the first four 'Adil Shahi sultans of Bijapur had their tombs constructed in a necropolis at Gogi, while the next four each had his tomb constructed in the neighborhood of Bijapur itself- Gol Gumbaz, Ibrahim Rauza, and many others. Adil Shahi Sultans were known to patronize Sufi saints. Quoting few lines from the article 'Sufi Saints in Karnataka' authored by Prof. Maruti Kamble of Karnatak University, Dharwad- A reference to twenty-two famous Sufi saints of Bijapur during the Adil Shahi period are found. (1) Sayyid Chanda Husaini migrated from Arabia to Bidar in the late 15th century and joined the cavalry of King Yusuf Adil Khan and accompanied him to Gogi, seven miles from Shahapur of Gulbarga district. At present his tomb is located in Gogi. Do read the article, its quite interesting. BTW, Gogi is now part of Yadgiri district.

Here are few pictures:
Gateway to Dargah of Sayyid Chanda Husaini
Sayyid Chanda Husaini Dargah mosque
Mosque's minarets

Gateway to Adil Shahi tomb complex
Circular balcony
Inside of the necropolis gateway
Structure housing the royal tombs
A short video of Dargah and tomb complex:



About 5 or 6 kilometers on Gogi-Vanadurga road we saw this brick structure, it seems quite ancient, possibly constructed during Adil Shahi times.


...see you at Vanadurga.

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